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How to customise the LED/Switch location of lockup-mate®PLUS+

Updated: May 1

NOTE: This article applies only to lockup-mate®PLUS+ in the Toyota. For Mitsubishi, please contact us via the website for advice.

Prior to purchasing lockup-mate®PLUS+, our customer, Sam, contacted us seeking a solution to his unique setup in his late model HiLux Rogue. He has performance gauges on the A-pillar so clipping the lockup kit LED/Switch there wasn't possible.

What is the LED/Switch used for?

The lockup-mate®PLUS+ LED/Switch is used to: 

  • toggle the kit on and off,

  • display torque converter lockup status,

  • activate the Slip Alert feature, where the LED blinks to indicate the transmission is unlocked and slipping, typically occurring when driving in SPORT Mode when the gear selected is too high for lockup; and

  • adjust the lockup kit configuration from the default parameters, if required.

Feedback on lockup status via the blue LED also helps you understand how the kit operates and experience the new 'direct drive' feel of the car when the transmission torque converter is locked.

NOTE: If you have an OBD2 Reader, like the UltraGaugeMX or ScanGauge, you can ignore the TCC lockup displayed by it.  The OBD2 Reader will display what the ECU would do, but the lockup kit will override the ECU, so the LED is the true lockup status.

Why is the LED/Switch located on the A-Pillar?

The adjustable LED housing was designed to be very easily installed and simply clips onto the A-pillar trim. Being located on the A-pillar allows lockup status to be easily viewed by the driver without taking their eyes off the road.


Whether the LED is seen in your peripheral vision or glanced at briefly, the blue LED indicates when the transmission is locked, keeping it cool, and saving fuel.  

Is there an alternative location?

Yes.  Like in Sam’s situation, we understand some customers have unique requirements such as A-pillar gauges, or simply prefer another position for the LED/Switch away from the A-pillar.

With a few simple modifications, the LED/Switch is able to be mounted onto any flat surface.

Importantly, the new location should allow the LED to point directly towards the driver.  The LED is directional with a narrow viewing angle. When viewed off-center, it may appear too dim to see easily during the daytime.

Should I install it into a factory blank?

We don’t recommend installing the LED in a spare factory switch blank location as the LED will be hard to see.  Not only must you take your eyes ‘off the road’, the directionality of the LED will mean it’ll be difficult to see per the advice above.  However it is technically possible.  You also can’t use the status on your OBD2 reader as an alternative, as explained above.

Can I buy a 12V factory like switch and connect this to the lockup kit instead?

No. The LED/Switch operates from a 5V source and the logic within the control unit is not compatible with these switches.

Do I even need to install the LED/Switch?

We recommend you initially install the LED so it is visible, but once you’ve used the LED to learn the behaviour of the lockup kit and are familiar with the feel of the car once lockup up you can (if you want) simply coil up the LED cable and leave it accessible under the dash.  You’ll of course lose features like the lockup status and slip alert.  And turning the kit on and off is more difficult, but most normally customers just  leave the kit on all the time anyway.

Some people coil it up under the dash just prior to a dealer service so there is no obvious trace of the kit having been installed.

See this blog for advice on when to turn the kit on or off.

Incidentally, we're yet to hear of anyone who hasn't chosen to install the LED.

Modification procedure for an alternative flat surface

TIP: before modifying anything, install the lockup kit and drive the car with the LED still in the plastic housing. Try various positions to select the best option for your setup before committing to a new location.

  1. Select as suitable location noting the tip and advice above regarding the narrow LED viewing angle.

  2. Remove the 3D printed housing from the LED.  The plastic barrel will slide away with a gentle twisting motion and expose the LED/switch.  Fully remove the housing parts so only the LED attached to the cable remains.

  3. Drill a 9.0mm hole where the LED is to be installed

  4. Cut the LED cable about 30 cm or more from the actual LED/Switch. The cable will be fed through hole.

  5. Strip each end of the cut cable, as the wires of the cable will be soldered back together once the LED is installed.  Remove about 50mm of the outer sheath, and strip about 10mm off each wire. 

  6. Feed the cable through the 9.0 mm hole so the LED/Switch is flush and in its final position.

  7. On the reverse side (unseen side) use glue to secure the LED.  Ensure no glue leaks onto the front of the LED, otherwise the switch may become stuck.

  8. Solder the cable wires back together and use head shrink to cover the exposed wire/solder.

Now check the operation of the LED/switch to ensure it still ‘clicks’ when pressed.

And Sam’s feedback?  “Great product and I'm enjoying the direct drive feel when locked as I have a VDJ78 and I'm a bit of a manual fan. Thanks for your help and customer service, I'll be recommending these to all my mates.”

Have you also completed a custom LED install?  I’d love to see it. 

Happy travels! 


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